Marseille to Lyon: Et Tout le Reste

Are here on Gilligan’s Isle! (I know I’ve made that joke before, but I couldn’t resist doing it again. Damn catchy theme songs.)  As you might have guessed, this post is not about Gilligan’s Island (though it could be, since I have a soft spot for ’50s and ’60s sitcoms. I’ve actually been on a real I Dream of Jeannie kick lately, which is pretty good if you ignore all the glaring misogyny), but is the usual sort of mop-up post I do at the end of a trip if I have enough places to write about that didn’t really fit in with my other posts.


The first of these is Chauvet Cave, or more accurately, the exact replica of the cave they’ve created 20 km away, called Caverne du Pont D’Arc. You can’t visit the actual cave due to its fragility, unless you’re a researcher, but the original is home to some of the earliest known cave drawings, which are around 30,000-32,000 years old but were only re-discovered in 1994, as a rock slide had sealed the cave off around 21,000 years ago. The replica would normally merit a post of its own, but for the fact that you can’t take photos in the cave (even though it’s a replica), so I don’t have much to show you. As soon as we worked out when we were going to be in the area, I booked tickets online, because they only do a handful of English language tours a day, and they often sell out in advance. These were €15 each. We ended up getting there about an hour before our tour, so we went to look around their museum first, mainly because I wanted to see derpy cave lion, who is featured prominently on their website. He was every bit as derpy as I was hoping, and there were some other derpy prehistoric animals as well, in addition to a short video presentation about the paleolithic people who did the drawings, and some basic information about the caves.
We finished with the museum in only about twenty minutes, so we just walked down to the cave to wait for our tour to start, along with loads of other Anglophone people. A French lady (who spoke English, obviously) gave the tour, and we were each given a pair of headphones so we could hear what she was saying, which was smart because a new group entered the cave every five minutes (there are tours in French pretty much every five minutes, but the English ones only appear to be once every two hours, which is why you should pre-book), so we would have been standing close enough to the other groups to make it difficult to hear our guide without them. Some guy tried to take a picture early on, despite everyone being told multiple times that it wasn’t allowed, and our guide politely but firmly shut him down, which I loved (and I was glad the darkness hid my smirk). The caves are pretty amazing, even in replica form (actually, especially in replica form, because I think it’s awesome that they were able to re-create the exact feel of a cave, right down to the much-appreciated cool temperature), and though the horse panel is the most famous, my favourite was actually the cave lion panel, because derpy cave lions! There are also a number of hand print drawings, some drawings of cave rhinos, cave bears, and deer; and a lot of cave bear skulls and bones (you can view photos of all the panels here). I’ve never been much for prehistory, but even I have to admit that cave drawings this old are really interesting and well worth checking out, though I was disappointed that the only thing in the shop featuring the cave lion was a notebook.
Later that day, en route to Lyon, we decided to make a pit stop at the Arnaud Soubeyran Nougat Shop and Museum, because why would I not want to chance to sample some nougat? There actually weren’t any free samples left when we arrived, but that didn’t stop me from buying quite a lot there, even at a steep €4 per hundred grams. We popped in to the small museum , which was free, and even though it was all in French, I thought it was adorable, especially the replica beehives with very characterful bees. I especially appreciated the free impeccably clean toilet (with a seat!). The nougat noir, which was really more of a brittle, was one of the most delicious candies I have ever eaten, and I highly recommend it (and I think you do get what you pay for, because their nougat was pretty much solid almonds, and when we looked at cheaper brands, you were lucky to get like ten almonds in the whole bar). We also stopped at Valrhona’s City of Chocolate, and though we didn’t visit the expensive museum of chocolate, we did stop in the shop, which had a ridiculous amount of free samples. I ate myself sick in about five minutes of arriving.
Since it seems to be the thing to do in France, we also visited some churches, including the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere, which was on a massive hill in Lyon that we had to take a funicular to access. Here’s a tip: there is a huge queue for the basilica funicular, but none at all for the amphitheatre one. If you take the amphitheatre one, you can easily walk to the basilica from there if you don’t mind walking up about fifty steps (I did mind, because it was a million degrees, but it was still better than queuing for like an hour). The amphitheatre was extremely meh, especially because parts of it were covered in scaffolding in preparation for a music festival that takes place there (and the museum was closed), but the church was fine, if you like that sort of thing. It had some impressive lions out front, and the walk down took us near the Musees Gadagne, so it wasn’t much of a detour from our day or anything.
On a more serious note, we also visited somewhere that was quite meaningful to me – not on account of being a church, but because my grandpa was there. As you might know, if you’ve read my other blog (which I was no longer actively posting on, but I will try to update it soon because on my recent trip home, I discovered a bunch of photos I’d never seen before (including some amazing photos of my grandma when she was a young adult) and a journal giving a day-by-day breakdown of where my grandpa was during the war. You know, the kind of stuff that would have been immensely useful when I was initially doing that blog), my grandpa served in WWII, and was stationed in Europe from late 1944-46. In addition to the letters he wrote to my grandma, I also have some of the pictures he sent her, and one of them was taken in Marseille, which I only knew because my grandpa wrote it on the back. Unfortunately, he didn’t write exactly where he was, so it took a bit of sleuthing based on the stuff in the background, but I eventually determined he was in front of the funicular at Notre Dame de la Garde, which overlooks the city. Ever since I found this photo a few years after my grandpa died, I’ve wanted to try to re-create it if I ever went to Marseille, and this was finally my chance (I have since found multiple photos of him in other locations in Marseille, but of course I only found them about a month after visiting Marseille).
The basilica has been here since the 1870s in its current form (though a church has been on this spot since the 13th century), and was actually bombed in 1944 during the battle to liberate Marseille (you can still view the scarred wall), though survived largely intact. This would have happened before my grandpa’s visit anyway, as he must have been either in late 1945 or early 1946, well after liberation. Sadly, the funicular (which looked amazing) was torn down in the 1960s (you can now either walk up (seriously a gajillion steps), take the cute little motorised “train” that rides up here, or just drive up and park at the top, which is lazily what we did), and all the walls looked different than the one my grandpa was sitting on, so it was really really hard to find the spot where he was, not to mention that the background looked completely different, because there was no funicular, and there was the addition of a lot of really tall trees that don’t seem to have been here in the 1940s. So I just had to try to take a photo in lots of different spots and hope one of them would match up. Eventually we found an information desk staffed by a nun, and though she didn’t speak much English, I showed her the original photo, and she was able to direct me to a spot near the large cross in one of the lower levels of steps near the church. I think the exact spot is now a car park, but I got as close as I could! It was just nice to be somewhere my grandpa had been when he was around my age (I kind of wish I’d brought his army jacket and put it on for the pictures, but that seemed a bit militaristic), and of course I went in the church and lit candles for him and my grandma (I’m not at all religious, but they were, and I reckon it can’t hurt!).
Finally, I feel I should talk about the elusive chichis fregis, or “fried willies.” Obviously, with a name like that, I had to try them, but as I mentioned in the Van Gogh post, there’s one particular village called L’Estaque about 10 km out of Marseille that specialises in them, with three stands opposite a little shopping street, and when we passed through, all of them were closed. Not to be deterred, I decided we needed to swing by on our way back to Marseille (we flew in and out of Marseille, so had to return anyway), and fortunately, this time they were open, though after a day of eating pastries, and knowing I had a flight ahead of me, I wasn’t inclined to eat as much as I would have done the first time we drove through. This was a shame, because the chichis fregis, though very greasy, were delicious, and the panisses were even better. The chichis fregis are like doughnuts flavoured with orange blossom water and coated in sugar, but with a very custardy interior and crisp exterior, and the panisses are made of chickpea flour, which is cooked with water to a polenta-like consistency, left to cool, and then cut into shapes and fried, which makes them more like savoury little fritters. Very good, and worth the trip, but I wish they had opening hours listed somewhere – at least on the actual stalls – so we could have avoided the disappointment the first time around! I also find it weird I didn’t at least find panisse somewhere else, since I thought it was a general south of France thing, but nope, I only spotted it in this village. Maybe I just didn’t go to the right places.
After this trip, France is still not on my list of favourite countries (I know this is probably not a common sentiment, but I much prefer Belgium to the bits of France I’ve seen. Admittedly, there’s still a lot of France I haven’t been to, and maybe those parts are better), but it’s warmed my opinion enough that I don’t think I’ll avoid it for eleven years again (I’m probably gonna need more panisses and chichis fregis at some point). I think I just need to time any future visits better so they’re not over a Sunday or in the height of summer!


  1. Yay! I Dream of Jeannie is one of my favourites too! I’ve probably mentioned this before but – one year, my mom made me the most incredible replica Jeannie outfit for Halloween. I even had one of her vases for my bottle. I have to say, it was hands-down my best costume ever. Much better than when she had me dress up as Charlie Chaplin. I mean, that was okay – but I just really didn’t like having a moustache.
    Good grief, I think I must be one of the least informed people. I’ve read a lot about the Chauvet Cave over the years but had no idea that they’d created a replica. If it weren’t for your wonderful posts, I swear I’d know nothing.
    Also, now I really want nougat and have no idea where I can find anything near as decent as the stuff you got.
    It gave me goosebumps to read (and see) that you found the location of your grandfather’s photo. I can only imagine what it must’ve felt like to know you were following his footsteps, as it were. Amazing. And I’m so happy to hear that there will be new entries on your other site 🙂

    1. I don’t remember you mentioning that before, and I think I would have remembered it, because it sounds amazing! I’m jealous! I was nowhere near that creative, and was a vampire for Halloween like four years in a row. I’d love to see a photo, if you have one!
      If there’s an Italian market near you, maybe they have nougat? It seems to be not as common in America as it is here. I can get ok nougat at some supermarkets, and there’s sometimes Italian stalls at street markets that do fairly good stuff, though nowhere near as good as I had in France.
      I’m kind of upset that I found the other Marseille photos after I was there, because I could have been in a lot more places he was, but it was still cool to do it. I think I have to go back to Belgium soon, because there’s loads of photos of him in Belgium that I just found. I found so much other stuff too, like his dog tags!

      1. I do have a photo! I’ll dig it out this weekend and send it to you. My memory is that in it I’m standing like a dumb kid and not showing it off especially well – but it’ll give you the gist of it anyway.
        Wow – finding his dog tags must’ve been an incredible moment. And I look forward to hearing about your next Belgium trip. It’d be amazing to pinpoint all the sites and recreate the photos. I think that’d get me a little verklempt.

      2. Awesome, thanks! Marcus just bought me Barbara Eden’s autobiography, so I’m right in the middle of all her complaints about Larry Hagman (and I tend to believe her. Larry Hagman gives off jerk vibes, even though Jeannie and Tony were adorable together).
        My brother might be coming for a visit in October, and if he does, I’d like to try to go to Belgium with him to see this stuff. Otherwise it might have to wait a little while.

  2. It’s so cool that you found where your grandfather had been. You’ll have to go back someday to try to locate the rest of the places in the batch of photos you just found. I hadn’t realized you had another blog – what a wonderful gift to have those letters! We have a set of letters from my grandmother to my aunt from 1948/49 and letters between that Aunt and my Dad from when he was in Germany in 1958/59 and a smattering of others from that time period, but I would love to have more. And they aren’t as interesting as your Grandfather’s letters!! I’ve been traveling all summer and have lost track – you are still living in England, right? I recall you talking about moving back to the states at one point.

    1. I am still in England, yes! I did throw the idea of moving back out there, but I don’t see it happening any time in the foreseeable future. I did just get back from a visit though (as you probably knew from the found photos).
      I think it’s great to have any letters, and I’m sure yours are interesting too! I actually found a couple more letters as well – these were ones he’d written to his parents – as well as the telegram informing him of his mother’s death (she died suddenly, possibly from a brain aneurysm, when my grandpa was still overseas. She was only about 58), which was terribly sad in its starkness.

  3. The Basilica Notre-Dame de Fourvière in Lyon is the sort of building I can’t stand (like Sacré-Cœur in Paris), since it was built as “a gigantic ex-voto” to celebrate the victory of reactionary “Christian values” over the socialist aspirations of the Lyon commune. (
    On the other hand, I liked the Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde in Marseille, which was built as the result of an architectural competition. After they announced the winning architect, they discovered he was a (gasp) Protestant, but by then it was too late so they let him build it anyway.

    1. I didn’t know that about the Basilica in Lyon. Gross! That makes me actively dislike it too! I have to like the Notre Dame of Marseille though, because of the connection with my grandpa (and I agree, it also has a much better story!).

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