London: Pitzhanger Manor and Gallery

 

I think we’ve established by now that I am not the sort of person that gets invited to premieres. However, because my friend works at Pitzhanger Manor, I was invited to their opening weekend (this wasn’t an exclusive event though, I hasten to add – anyone was allowed to book a spot, provided they did so early enough), and I was very happy to attend and feel like one of the special people for once, even though it takes about an hour to get to Ealing from where I live.

 

Pitzhanger Manor was John Soane’s country estate from 1800-1810 (because back then, Ealing was in the country instead of just being absorbed into the sprawl of London), and a place where he could show off his architectural skills to potential clients (Soane is known for designing the Bank of England and Dulwich Picture Gallery, amongst various other things). He actually worked on a wing of the house as a young apprentice, and this was the only part of the original 1768 building that he left intact after moving in. Soane was forced to sell the house after only ten years for a number of reasons, which I’ll get to later, and it passed through a number of hands over the years (including the daughters of Spencer Perceval, who has the unhappy distinction of being the only Prime Minister to be assassinated) before being taken over by Ealing Council in 1900. They decided to turn one wing into a library (which is one of the few acceptable uses of a historic home, presuming they leave the interiors intact as much as possible) which remained open until 1984, when it was decided to restore the house and open it as a museum. It opened in 1987, only to be closed again in 2015 for a major restoration/conservation project, and it finally re-opened on 16 March 2019, which is when I went to see it.

Pitzhanger will normally cost £7.70 to visit, but was free on opening weekend, which is one of the reasons it was completely booked up, with a queue of people waiting to get in if there were cancellations. I breezed past them all, because I was on the list (again, the same list that anyone could have gotten on by pre-booking. I’m really not any kind of VIP, though I like to pretend). I met up with my friend shortly after arriving, and she was obviously super busy and kept getting stopped by visitors to answer their questions, but she still managed to give me a little tour of the house, which I appreciated. The interior of the house is fairly empty – this is mainly because the vast majority of John Soane’s possessions reside in his house in Lincoln’s Inn Fields, which is also a museum (which I still haven’t gotten around to blogging about! I guess I’m due for another visit), but the rooms have been painstakingly restored, and there are a lot of gorgeous features. My friend explained how Soane’s architectural style was heavily influenced by the time he spent in Italy during his Grand Tour, and that one of the ceilings in the house was modelled on the Italian sky.

 

You can see a bit of that sky ceiling in a corner of the photo above left, but my personal favourite feature in the house was the fabulous hand-painted bird wallpaper in the Upper Drawing Room, followed closely by the ceiling in the “Eating Room,” below left (which is what the dining room is called – maybe Soane liked to keep things casual?). I still desperately want a house with some Georgian blue and Scheele’s green interiors (though preferably sans the actual arsenic). John Soane and his wife Eliza were circulating whilst we were at Pitzhanger (or, you know, some actors playing them), so we had to get a picture with Soane that mimicked our photo with the actual Gary Oldman (which I realise most of you probably haven’t seen, because I only put it on my personal Facebook, but it’s a good one!), with Soane in place of Oldman.

But Pitzhanger isn’t just an historic home – it’s also an art gallery (the £7.70 admission price I mentioned includes both house and gallery)! The wing that used to be Ealing’s library has been turned into a gallery space, and the inaugural exhibition is by Anish Kapoor. I have to confess that whilst I certainly recognise Kapoor’s name, I’m not terribly familiar with his work, and this is the first exhibition of his that I’ve seen. I read before going that his “sculptures echo Soane’s complex use of mirrors and light and will enable visitors to Pitzhanger to see Soane’s architecture from a fresh perspective,” and I must have skimmed over the part about the mirrors, because what I was expecting from “sculptures” was certainly not this!

To be honest, at first glance I was underwhelmed, because it just appeared to be some mirrors on a wall. But after interacting with them, I realised they were actually pretty fun! I’m not sure if I necessarily saw the connection to Pitzhanger Manor, but it didn’t really matter because they were a good time, and people inside were really friendly due to obviously enjoying themselves as well (a lady offered to take our photo, as seen above).

 

The only critical comment I would make is that aside from an introductory panel to the exhibition, there was virtually no text inside, but I guess sometimes it’s better to experience than to just stand there reading something (my friend also told me they had a problem with people touching the mirrors and leaving fingerprints, so please, look but don’t touch!). The gallery is also home to the shop, which features quite a lot of merchandise inspired by the bird wallpaper, because why wouldn’t you highlight your most fabulous feature?

After finishing with the art gallery, we returned to the house to explore a few of the rooms in a bit more detail, including the basement, which talked about Soane’s desire to become a hermit (he apparently used to hide down there or wander his gardens pretending to be one, which I can certainly relate to), which is perhaps indicative of his mental state near the time he decided to sell Pitzhanger. He was feeling depressed because both his sons were ne’er do well types who had no desire to follow in his footsteps and become architects, as he was hoping, and because Eliza was suffering from ill health and disliked being in the country. I’m sorry that Soane had such a hard time of it, but I did like all the masks on the walls used to illustrate his changing moods.

Because my friend works here and gave me a special tour which is probably not the normal Pitzhanger experience, I don’t think it would be right for me to give Pitzhanger a score, as I normally would. But I will tell you what I liked and disliked. It is a gorgeous house, and it is clear that a lot of love and care have gone into its restoration. I also think the inaugural art exhibition is fun and interactive, but not very much else in the house was. There were a few areas for children to get more involved, and the Eating Room had some sound effects, but other than a few faux old books you could flip through to learn more about Soane’s life, and a neat little moving timeline diorama, there wasn’t a whole lot for adults to do other than admire the property. I think they would do well in future to try to get a few more artefacts and things in (maybe Soane’s Lincoln’s Inn Fields House could loan something?) to make the house more of an experience, because for £7.70, it is fairly small (there were only a couple of rooms open on each floor, maybe seven rooms overall?), even with the art gallery attached. Still, I’m glad I got to check it out on opening weekend, and thoroughly enjoyed my experience there, thanks in no small part to my friend.

 

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12 comments

  1. It’s my fantasy to be a VIP one day (even a pretend one), too, so I totally get the fun of walking past the line! I love the architecture (and that wallpaper is absolutely gorgeous), but it does seem a shame that it is so empty – especially compared to his London house, which is so packed with stuff. Adding the art gallery was a creative touch to fill up some of the empty space.

      1. I’d never heard of Martinware – thanks for the introduction. I love those birds! Wikipedia seems to think that the museum has a large collection. I hope that they put it on display. That would certainly add to the visiting experience.

      2. I only know about Martinware because we have a collection of it where I work (and it is by far the most valuable thing there). The Wallybirds are my favourite too! And the Martin brothers were super eccentric and interesting.

  2. Funny to think of Ealing being the countryside! It look great, I had never heard of it. As well as the ceiling you mention, I like the one in the eating room too. And, yes, the wallpaper is gorgeous. The mirrors look fun! Especially the mismatched head / body.

    1. The mirrors were really fun! The head/body thing was a big cube in the middle of the room with a mirror hole thing on either side, so you saw the head of the person on the other side when you looked into it. Not entirely sure of the logistics, but it was cool!

  3. I think I would also have been disappointed by the lack of furnishings. It looks like a lovely house that can be admired for the architecture alone, but artifacts definitely help visitors imagine what it was like to actually live in it. Hopefully now that the renovations are done they will turn their attention to furnishing it.

  4. Even without the furnishings it seems like it was a fun experience. Great photos with the mirrors! I’m glad they have put the effort into restoring it. So many great buildings the world over are left to ruin. Others might say the money could be put to better use, but aspiration inspired by beauty is still a gift to humanity.

  5. Such a jolly, apple-cheeked Mr. Soane! I generally get kinda angsty when there’s someone milling around in character – but that guy looks alright.
    Love the photo of Marcus in your great coat. That’s a really neat effect.
    I’ve never put up wallpaper anywhere I’ve lived (except for my childhood bedroom, but that was my mom – not me) but I would gladly do so if I could get a decent copy of that sweet bird paper. It’s so cheering!
    I’m intrigued by the mention of sound effects in the Eating Room. My mind went automatically to chewing noises, which cracked me up. But I don’t suppose it was anything so funny (?)

    1. He was fairly jolly, albeit a bit bemused as to why we wanted a photo with him, but was happy enough to go along with it.
      I’ve never put up wallpaper either. I think I may have mentioned the horrible clown wallpaper I had in my childhood bedroom (up until the age of 18, and that was only because we moved), and I was allowed to choose a colour of paint for the walls of my bedroom in the new house, but no wallpaper. And everywhere I’ve lived as an adult has been rented. I would love wallpaper as fabulous as that though, even though I know what a pain it is to hang and especially to get off!
      No chewing, just people talking and glasses clinking, that sort of thing. I think chewing might have made me feel ill – I want to puke when someone sits behind me on the bus and starts chowing down on a sandwich or something. I once had to listen to a woman eating a bag of crisps like I imagine Cthulhu would, and she managed to make them last for an entire half an hour long bus ride, even though it was only a single serving bag. And then left the empty packet on the bus. The worst.

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